Things To Do and Activities in Provence

Wine Tasting

Amid the rich farmland of southern France thrive the grapes that underlie what many consider the world's finest wines. For this reason alone, a villa vacation in Provence should appeal to anyone interested in wine and wine-tasting. Chances are you'll find a delicious vintage worth sampling in a local vineyard just down the road from wherever you choose to stay.

There are so many vineyards in this section of France and such a vast array of wines that you can stretch into a full day or even a week your wine-tasting itinerary. Generally vineyards allow you to taste their wines (and sometimes even their olive oil) and have your favorites shipped home. Many also offer tours with detailed explanations of the winemaking process, from vine to glass. Bear in mind that most require calling ahead for an appointment.

Wine production in Provence is most prolific in the southwest, particularly along the lower portion of the Rhône between Bollène and Avignon in the area known as Côtes-du-Rhône, and in the Côtes-de-Provence area spreading inland from the Mediterranean coast. The Côtes-du-Rhône region of Vaucluse produces several internationally renowned wines including labels from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras. The area around Orange includes noteworthy vineyards in the districts of Rasteau, Cairanne, Séguret, Beaumes de Venise, Roaix and Valréas. Just to the east look for great production from Les Baux-de-Provence and Côtes du Luberon.

The Côtes-de-Provence area in the Haut Var region inland of St. Tropez can be toured by car along a 60-to-70-mile loop best initiated in Les Arcs. Vineyards and wine-producing chateaux are everywhere, supported by pivotal towns such as Les Arcs, Lorgues, Vidauban, Entrecasteaux and Taradeau. Côtes de Provence wines include the tasty Domaines Gavoty labels along with Commanderie de Peyrassol and Commanderie de Bargemone.

Vaucluse and the Luberon

The Luberon so immortalized in Peter Mayle's work consists of two areas, Petit Luberon and Grand Luberon, a confluence of plains, hills and dramatic mountain peaks in the southern portion of Vaucluse. Much of it comprises an area known as the Parc Naturel Régional, rich in forests of cedar, rolling grasslands and indigenous wildlife. Small villages such as Ménerbes and Bonnieux offer charming cafés and places to gather with the French who live locally. Close by to the north is the stunning hilltop village of Gordes, its medieval and Renaissance architectural heritage cascading downward from a steep perch, popular nowadays for its location as much as for its abundance of fine restaurants, inns and hotels.

To the west astride the Rhône is the medieval walled city of Avignon—the main city in Vaucluse and indeed one of the most picturesque spots in all of France. The partial Pont St. Bénézet is a visual and historic landmark, jutting gracefully into the Rhône, the remainder of the town rising up the banks of the river beyond and culminating in the great Palais des Papes. For a memorable afternoon, spend time outdoors at the tree-lined Place de l'Horloge, the town's main square and a fixture there since the 15th century. Of course Avignon serves as a gateway of sorts to the entire Côtes-du-Rhône winemaking district, which stretches northward to include Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Orange and Bollène—cities and towns that, in words of Mr. Mayle, remain "singleminded in their dedication to the grape."

Bouches-du-Rhone

In the southwestern portion of Provence is the département Bouches-du-Rhône, an inspired compilation of manmade and natural phenomena that includes the great port city of Marseille, the wild flatlands that form the alluvial outlet of the Rhône known as la Camargue, the mini-mountains of les Alpilles, and an interior of gentle hills, plains, valleys and wonderful historic French villages and towns. To the east of Marseille along the coast is the charming port of Cassis, at one time the summer haunt of great painters such as Henri Matisse and Raoul Dufy, now a popular Mediterranean setting within hailing distance of the towering Calanques, accessible to beaches and privy to a banquet of local seafood. All the way to the west away from the coast is the great city of Nîmes.

Aix-en-Provence

Thoroughly unique and charming, Aix–en-Provence is located in Bouches-du-Rhône just to the north of Marseille. In the 15th century it was the capital of Provence. In centuries to follow it became an epicenter of wealth and culture—the "Florence of Provence," to many. Aix is flowers and fountains, upscale dwellings and narrow shaded streets. It is one of the largest and most sophisticated towns in the region, but it is a university town as well with a youthful population that brings an edgier feel to its urbane glamour.

The heart of Aix truly is Cours Mirabeau, a sun-dappled, tree-lined boulevard where the wide sidewalks are always abuzz, described unabashedly by one visitor as "the most handsome main street in France." Sitting outside at one of the cafés lining the street, you are apt to feel as though transported to Paris. One such café, Les Deux Garçons, has remained "the" place to see and be seen since the 18th century. It's not hard to picture one of Aix's most famous residents, Paul Cézanne, relaxing there and discussing revolutionary art with his wizened cronies.

Les Baux-de-Provence

Built into the craggy rock of the Chaine des Alpilles northwest of Aix is Les Baux-de-Provence, a precipitous village, breathtaking from any angle. Once you have reached the town itself, you'll find its narrow streets filled with sightseers, considered as it is one of the top tourist destinations in all of France, with wonderful views of les Alpilles and the Provençal countryside.

It may be that the town is enjoyed best from a distance. Drive five minutes beyond and discover a land of hikers, bicyclists and nature lovers well away from the madding crowds. There are trails to hike, rocks to climb, and caves to investigate. Bring a bottle of wine, a blanket and your camera, and hang out on a rock while you soak in the ethereal Provençal light as the sun sets on Les Baux over your shoulder.

St. Remy de Provence

Nearby, another exquisite spot in the foothills of les Alpilles—and a place yet to be discovered by the masses—is St. Rémy de Provence just a few kilometers to the north of Les Baux. This quaint village is small enough for exploration on foot, yet diverse enough to satisfy many interests. Cobblestone streets ply old stone buildings perfectly Provençal, with ivy-covered walls, buttercup-colored shutters and intricate bronze door knockers. Intimate courtyards with the requisite French fountains are sprinkled throughout the town, illuminated by twinkling lights strung from trees.

Artisans continue to be lured by the beauty of St. Rémy, and as a result many of the stores here are brimming with their own specialties in addition to clothes. Choose from among the gorgeous ceramics at Poteries Provence, Terre e Provence, or Terres et Soleil. Find special touches for your home in Baumaniere (furniture and table settings), N.M. Deco (linens and glassware), or La Maison du Village (soft throw blankets and candles). For a palette of colors very different from the usual Provençal fare, visit des journés anetieres dans les arbres. Vivid colors are splashed throughout the store on hand-painted stools, stained-glass lamps, paintings, hats and jewelry.

Shopping is not the only way to occupy your time in St. Rémy. The town features notable sights, including l'Eglise St. Martin, known for its thunderous organ, l'Hôtel de Sade, built around Roman remains, and Centre d'Art Presence Van Gogh. Just a few miles outside of town is le Clinique St. Paul, where Van Gogh went to escape the world after he cut off his ear.

Arles

If Roman antiquity interests you, Arles should be one of your first stops. It was for Vincent Van Gogh, who lived and painted here. This small city on the banks of the Rhône has a bustling market and some worthwhile shopping, but what differentiates Arles from many of its neighbors are its well-preserved Roman ruins. The Théâtre Antique offers fascinating grist for history buffs. If you’ve never been able to visit the Coliseum in Rome, Les Arenes in Arles may be the next best thing. The ancient amphitheater is now used for bullfights, which start over Easter and run until the second Saturday in September.

For a more peaceful experience, visit Eglise St. Trophime, a Romanesque church with elaborate tapestries and an exquisite cloister. St. Trophime is on Place de la République, a sunny square with benches scattered around a central fountain. Not far away is L'Espace Van Gogh, honoring the memory of the artist who spent just over a year in the city and painted more than 300 canvases there.

 
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