If Grand Cayman were your right foot, George Town, the main population center, would be your big toe while West Bay and the village of "Hell" would be your pinky. East Bay, with its expanse of beach and blowholes spouting from coral rock, would be your heel.
Our hotel lay on Seven Mile Beach, a sweep of white sand painted along the toenails of the foot. After getting situated Wednesday afternoon and enjoying the sunset on the beach, we hailed a taxi and headed to Ristorante Pappagallo in West Bay for dinner.
Built on a tiny island surrounded by a lagoon, Pappagallo's round, thatch-roof buildings with high ceilings and soft lighting help create an ambiance of island decadence, at once casual and relaxed, luxurious and posh. One has to cross a small bridge over a lagoon with giant tarpon swimming underneath to reach the restaurant entrance. We were greeted at the front door by a
maitre 'd flanked by cages holding two brilliantly colored macaws. After ordering Italian chardonnay and a cracked conch appetizer, we watched the water cascading over the restaurant's waterfall into the lagoon, (and still gloating over our early arrival on the island.) After an absurdly delicious dinner of fresh grilled snapper marinated with local herbs, and squid
simmered in black ink served over homemade pasta, we headed back to the hotel for a much-anticipated good night's sleep.
Thursday morning, after a fittingly English breakfast of boiled eggs and toast served with small plates of tropical fruit, we met up with our local representative to see 10 of the island's villas. All day Thursday, we criss-crossed the island from west to east and looped around the north coast, exploring spacious mansions with private pools, and homes connected to quiet
paths leading to secluded beaches. We were able to see the charming North Side, with its old style "wattle and daub" homes, explore the Cayman Kai and Rum Point areas and stop briefly on the Eastern shore at the sight of worst ship wreck in Cayman history. In 1794, a convoy of 10 British merchant vessels went aground in strong winds and rough seas on Gun Bluff, a
reef two miles off the east coast. Cayman history is liberally soaked with seafaring tales of pirates, privateers and sailors, and many of yesterday's most infamous shipwrecks are today's most popular dive sites.
Christi and Michael
