Greece and Morocco Trip Report
by Suzanne Goulart

I started my journey to Greece aboard a British Air 767. After a long layover in London, a 4-1/2 hour flight to Athens, a 1-hour bus to the port of Piraeus, and a 4-hour fast ferry ride on Hellenic Seaways (the best! a/c, snack bar, tv, comfortable seats), I arrived in Mykonos, and was greeted by Federico Arduino (managing director of Aqualiving/Living International) and Hayden Kemp (Guest relations manager) holding a "Lady Suzanne" sign.

Nothing like starting off your trip feeling like royalty!

Federico & Hayden were truly a sight for sore eyes after a long trip. We drove to my home for the next 5 nights, Villa Kerithium, which is a wonderful 3-bedroom villa in the Parenthesis villa resort in Agios Ioannis. Federico had provisioned my villa with a few essentials: coffee, water, wine, roast chicken, a Greek salad, and some bread. After dinner, I crawled into my very comfortable king-sized bed and was out like a light.

I woke the next morning earlier than usual with my body clock being off a bit. I looked out my window to find the most gorgeous view-the sacred island of Delos was golden against the deep blue of the Aegean Sea. I could hear the lapping of the waves against the shore. The Greek islands are a state of mind, tranquil, soothing, rich in history, timeless.... while at the same time very chic. Even with this being my fourth time to these beautiful islands, I'm still in awe, always...

I decided to explore the area of Agios Ioannis, where all the Parenthesis villas are located, and grab a cup of coffee. This quiet area with its great breezes, views, small restaurants and tavernas, and lovely beaches - Kapari and Agios Ioannis (made famous by the movie "Shirley Valentine") - is dreamy. This is a great family area not far from Mykonos town (known as Hora). Three minutes from my villa was Apollonia Bay restaurant, a great little eatery with a nice menu and views, good for our clients who stay in this area and don't want to venture out too far for a bite. Later stopped at a small convenience store owned by a long time local, Spiros, who owned much of the land in this area and wanted to make sure it never got overdeveloped - in typical Greek fashion, he refused to let me pay for my coffee, as a sign of hospitality.

Next on the agenda were villa inspections. Started with Astarte, sister villa to Kerithium, with a shared pool: same high standard with lots of white and teak furniture. Very stylish, open floor plan, well-equipped kitchen, bathrooms with sunken tubs and exposed stone, marble handcarved Greek designs in floor, pretty garden, satellite TV, DVD, stereo, and great views.

The foursome of Phoebe, Artemis (all on one floor), Leto & Asteria followed. These are all 3-bedroom villas and share one large (deep) pool between the 4 of them. Same style and high standards throughout. Neptunea was next, just below Kerithium. This villa works well for a family - all on one floor and large pool area.

For dinner, had a late reservation at N'ammos, a trendy restaurant directly on Psarou Beach, with great music, service and décor. As the night progressed, more traditional Greek music was played, at which point the large tables of locals would start dancing and singing.

On Saturday, we saw Alisahnea & Okyroe, also part of Parenthesis-these are 2 beautiful villas which work well for a large group. Sunset views, great art and furnishings, and in a very breezy area. Alisahnea works best as a 4-bedroom (although it has an additional small 2-bedroom studio sharing a bath. This studio can only be rented when clients rent Okyroe and Alisahnea together). Okyroe works best as a 3-bedroom.

Dinner that night was at Sea Satin Market (also known as Caprices) on the harbor in Little Venice, just below the famous five windmills - hasn't changed much since I was here in 2001 (some might recognize this restaurant from the closing scene of "The Bourne Identity"). I recommend the grilled octopus or sea bass, and for dessert, the puff pastry with fresh blackberries. A stroll through the winding streets of Mykonos town (Hora) followed, with a stop at "El Pecado" on the harbor. This was the "it" place for music & ambience -. Hayden recommends clients call him in advance to reserve a table so they'll have their own private waiter.

Sunday started off with brunch at Apollonia Bay restaurant, followed by a swim at the brand-new pool at Villa Kerithium. I later joined the rest of the crew at Agios Ioannis beach, where we rented beach chairs & umbrellas (inexpensive) and lunched at Manoulas, one of 2 tavernas on the beach. At night, a little shopping and dinner at Spilia, a small family run restaurant I discovered while here in 2000. The food is homecooked and reasonable, and surely has the best moussaka on the island. Tried to order their acclaimed flan dessert, but due to popular demand, they were out of it - maybe next time! Hopped in a 5-euro cab and 10 minutes later, I was home.

On Monday, I awoke to calm seas (the only day I've been here so far that hasn't been windy). Started the day with Maria, the Aqvaliving rep. We began with La Voile Rouge, a nice, basic house, with lots of outdoor seating, gorgeous sunset views & pool (with steps on 1 side & submerged seating on the other). No AC, no TV. The villa works best as a 4-bedroom as the studio rooms are very small. (Located next to Blue Rock, which was occupied).

After lunch, Hayden & I joined up to see Villa Taky Mou, a basic family villa, yet only a 5-minute walk to Platis Gialos & Psarou Beach, 2 good swimming areas for families, with lots of tavernas. No pool, AC only in studio rooms, but all rooms have fans. I've stayed in this area before and like it very much.

Next, we headed for Agios Sostis Retreat on Panormos Bay, a secluded part of the island. Interior-wise, this was one of my favorites: stylish, comfortable, lots of outdoor seating, attractive pool area with Jacuzzi, great colors, plasma satellite TV, spotless (although no AC). Gorgeous views. This villa is excellent for a family or group wanting privacy & quiet. The 4th bedroom is in a small house called the Pigeon House - an adorable studio. It's about a 15-minute drive to town & 5 minutes to a supermarket.

Lemonitra was our next destination, just across the bay from Agios Sostis Retreat. Truly a piece of art - I can see why it's been featured in interior design magazines. Live-in housekeeper, Balvil, was great and proudly showed us around his home. (I only wish I'd been able to photograph this villa). Has it all: great lap pool, incredible kitchen with gas stove, Surround Sound stereo system, satellite TV, DVD, interesting art (some of the nudes will need to go into storage when our clients are there). Even has an intercom system. I loved the 3-sink subterranean bathroom which looked into the pool from beneath the surface, very aquarium-like. There's a wonderful herb garden with the fragrance of lavender, all surrounded by spectacular ocean views! (Please note that clients will need a 4-wheel drive vehicle). Lemonitra is meant for the client who wants complete privacy; best for adults.

After a sunset swim at Kapari Beach, I headed to "La Cucina di Daniele" to sample the restaurant's superb cuisine. Daniele has been hired by Federico as head chef for our clients who opt for this additional service and, I must say, they'll be in for a treat! Daniele himself is from Siena, and has been a chef for over 20 years. (Federico tells me that competing restaurateurs on island have tried in vain to copy his innovative dishes-imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!)

As an example of Daniele's cuisine, this was our menu:

- Beef Carpaccio with fresh asparagus and crispy potatoes - Green Leaves salad with Burrata cheese - Fresh Foie Gras sauteed with Marsala wine & Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena - Risotto with fresh asparagus and Vanilla Tahiti - Fresh Duck caramelized with citrus fruits - Guinea fowl in salmi with Julienne vegetables & white truffle pate - Mascarpone cream with strawberry marinated in Aceto Balsamico & Basil, served with chocolate pearls Valhrona - Hot dark chocolate mouse

Tuesday brought another beautiful day in paradise. Started the day by visiting the most remote villa that Federico offers, Drakothea, located in Lia Bay in the eastern part of the island. Traditional Mykonian design throughout: stylish, comfortable, fantastic bathrooms, views, great lap pool with jets, excellent privacy. About a 20-minute drive to town. For the client who really wants to get away from it all. No AC.

Gracia a la Vida was next, which is close to Agios Ioannis beach. This spacious villa is great for large groups, with 4 bedrooms in the main house & another 2 bedrooms in the guest house. Amply-sized pool (with steps), great views of Delos and the sunset. Basic but comfortable furnishings, lots of sitting areas, good location - close to town.

The last 2 villas I saw were in the Agrari Beach area, convenient for families or groups who want to be close to a beach with watersports and a taverna. Federico's family villa, Infinity, was in the process of having work done, yet still looked fantastic: stylish, artistic, colorful, well furnished, and very private. Next was Agrari Beach House, an excellent 4-bedroom choice for small families. Consists of a main & guest house. Close to beach, child-friendly, ocean views & BBQ area. Not extravagant, but comfortable.

That was all the time I had for my Greek Odyssey - packed up and headed to the airport for a 7:45 p.m. Olympic flight to Athens. Less than an hour later, I was at the Sofitel Hotel, directly across from the airport - very convenient. Hopped on a bus for the Plaka and dinner at "The Byzantine". Food OK, great location for people-watching. A quick shop, then hotel bound.

Wednesday: early wake-up call (5:30 a.m.) for my 8:00 flight to London. Four hours later, I was in London, and after a long layover (and a stop in Casablanca to refuel), I touched down in Marrakech, one of the most fascinating cities of the Islamic world. After spending an hour going through Customs, I caught a shuttle bus to La Mamounia, a luxurious Old World hotel in the heart of town, just a 5-minute walk from the Medina and the souks (the markets). This hotel is perfect for our clients who are looking for authentic charm, great service, and a lot of amenities. Had dinner at the hotel's French restaurant (their other 2 restaurants are Moroccan & Italian) where I had a table outside by their famous garden.

On Thursday after breakfast, Widad Charki from Villas of Morocco picked me up to transfer me to Riyad Charai, my home for the next 3 nights (a riyad is a traditional home). The property was located deep inside the Medina, the old walled section of Marrakech, where time has stood still for over 1000 years. I've never experienced anything quite like this before: narrow, winding streets filled with donkey carts transporting all kinds of goods, chador-clad women, tiny fruit stands everywhere (some people just selling a few potatoes trying to make a living), children playing in the alleys (no GameBoys in sight!), exotic wares being sold from every corner-quite a lively street scene. Upon opening the door at Riyad Charai, I left it all behind, stepping into a peaceful haven. This home was beautiful, with an open courtyard filled with orange and jasmine trees, an inviting pool, tiled floors, a birdbath filled with rose petals, and lots of outdoor seating with gorgeous fabrics. There was a very well-equipped kitchen & living area with satellite TV, 5 bedrooms, a spa (hamman) and rooftop terrace overlooking the minarets of the old city. Also a staff of 5 who couldn't have been more accommodating.

After touring the Riyad and choosing my room, I took a seat in the courtyard and had mint tea, which was served with delicious Moroccan pastries - very civilized!

Abdul, who worked on the staff at Riyad Charai, later escorted me to the souks for a little shopping. This famous marketplace area of Marrakech is filled with snake charmers, monkeys, acrobats - you name it. Everyone should experience this! Being so close to the mosque, I heard the muezzin (person who calls the faithful to prayer) from the minaret, which is the tall tower of the mosque. This occurs several times a day. Enjoyed a roast chicken & vegetable dinner with Stella and Dalia, 2 of the other women staying at Riyad Charia, Afterwards, we joined the rest of the group for cocktails at the Jad Mahal restaurant. Youssef Benamour, owner of Villas of Morocco, was there along with several other members of his agency, including Eloise Keenan and Widad. About 20 agents and journalists were there as well, participating in this fam trip.

On Friday, it was off to the Palmeraie area (the palm forest of Marrakech) to tour the villas. Our first stop was Dar Iman, owned by a Moroccan, which was reflected in the exotic décor. This spacious property sleeps up to 21 people. Loved the pool, the view of the Atlas Mountains, and the huge open courtyard within the villa. Naomi Campbell recently stayed here. Dar El Farth (which means "House of Happiness") followed. This 6-bedroom house is a comfortable, basic family house. Manzah el Jamile was next: this brand new, English-owned 5-bedroom villa is "over the top"-the perfect choice for upscale American clients who want their Bel Air mansion with a Moroccan flair. No children.

Dar Tayda was our next stop. Extremely modern, minimalist 7-bedroom, Zen-like villa, with amazing pool. Lots of interesting art books (Andy Warhol, Dali etc.) English owners. Had a nice lunch prepared for us by the staff, and a short presentation by Youssef. The last stop on our site inspection was the most remote house of all, Villa Alexander, another English-owned property. Accommodating 12, this villa is all on 1 floor, and features a beautiful garden & pool area, and is dog-friendly. Approximately 1/2 hour from town.

That evening, we had dinner at the very fashionable Bo Zin restaurant in Marrakech, courtesy of the Moroccan Tourist Board of London. Eclectic ambience - artsy lighting indoors, and torches outside: South Beach meets Marrakech!

Saturday had us touring several riyads, starting with Riyad Al Arsa, owned by a French artist. Very cozy, tastefully decorated, no pool, but had a Jacuzzi. No AC or TV. Riyad Lotus Ambre followed: a boutique "hotel", good for those who want to stay less than a week. Very chic. No pool, but has a Jacuzzi on a rooftop terrace (great Medina views), with pillows scattered here and there for ambience and comfort. Also has AC, satellite TV & DVD. Our next property was Riyad Meryem, an authentic 5-bedroom accommodation. Each room had bathroom with shower. Small but beautiful pool. Very comfortable, with lots of outdoor sitting areas. Riyad Shama is a 5-bedroom house (2 rooms are 2-bedroom suites) that sleeps 14. Everything about it was just beautiful - the pool, artwork, linens-you name it. Spectacular views of the mosque from the rooftop terrace.

Riyad Charai, where I was staying, was next on our tour route. The staff prepared a nice lunch for the entire group, almost American style - pizza, salad & grilled vegetables. Ended the day seeing a brand new property, Lotus Riyad. No one in our group seemed to like it too much (probably because it lacked warmth, and was too gaudy for our tastes). My pictures will paint a better picture of it for you. Overall, the best riyads were Charai & Shama.

Our last get-together as a group was that evening's "Night in White" extravaganza, held at Dar Iman. Upon arriving there with my new friend, Gloria, we saw men lining the driveway, carrying torches and wearing traditional Moroccan robes. A traditional band was playing when we arrived at the front entrance, alongside a horse with a jewel-encrusted saddle. As we walked through the front door, women starting throwing rose petals on the floor for us to walk on - felt like something out of "Coming to America"! The scene inside was no less interesting: a snake charmer, belly dancers, monkey shows, tattoo artists & everyone dressed in white. The open courtyard itself was an exotic stage, with large silk pillows scattered beneath the palms & orange trees, like a scene out of Arabian Nights-with food, cocktails, music & laughter overflowing into the wee hours. One of the best parties I've ever been to!

After Sunday's breakfast, I let myself be pampered with an authentic Moroccan spa treatment in the hamman at Riyad Charai, where ingredients such as olive soap, rose oil & lavender oil were used. Very spiritual. Lunch followed, topped off with a mint tea: what a wonderful experience it was at Riyad Charai. Anyone would love it here!

Packed up, took pictures of the staff, and headed back to La Mamounia for my last evening. After a final stop at the souks, I met the remaining group of agents, as well as Youssef & Widad at Dar Yacoute restaurant, another truly amazing & authentic Moroccan dining experience. This beautiful restaurant (surrounding an interior pool) features live music, great food & impeccable service. This is an absolute must for anyone going to Marrakech (as are reservations!)

In closing, I just want to say that we have 2 very different and wonderful products here:

- Mykonos is a hotspot and will always draw people to its shores. The products we have to offer here are of a high standard, and I have little doubt that our clients will be quite happy. I also see the team of Federico, Barbara, Hayden, & Maria working well together: they're enthusiastic, friendly and knowledgeable.

- Morocco is amazing, exotic and mysterious. This location will appeal to the adventurous Wimco client, who wants to do something out of the ordinary. Youssef has amazing energy, knowledge & confidence. He wants to utilize his creativity to focus on customer service, as well as to organize special events & activities. The standards of the villas & riyads I saw were high, and our clients will not be disappointed in all that Villas of Morocco has to offer.