We arrived in the ancient town of Todi just as the morning mist gave way to a mid-day shower. After parking the car outside the stone walls of the city, we scurried under the lichen-covered arches and up the hill and joined a small group of locals huddled under umbrellas outside a cute trattoria. A few minutes later, two smiling waitresses led us to a little
table. Glancing around, we noted we were the only tourists in the small café. When our waitress returned for our order, we noted we were the only English-speaking people there, too. Pointing at the menu and smiling, we somehow ended up with a carafe of robust local wine and a delicious meal of homemade pappardelle pasta covered, of course, with truffles. The pungent,
earthy scent of truffles followed us everywhere throughout Umbria. Our simple meal in Todi that first afternoon was typical of many to follow: fresh, local produce and pasta prepared with herbs and olive oil and accompanied by a jug of local wine. Over the next seven days we were to return to this quaint trattoria in Todi more than once.
From Todi we drove north to Villa Olivi, where we based ourselves during our stay. The rustic villa is superbly located between Todi, Deruta and Perugia in the heart of Umbria. The "key holders" were waiting for us when we arrived and greeted us like long-lost friends. After a tour of the premises, conducted entirely in Italian, they
showed us the provisions they had stocked the villa with and the wonderful meal of veal, pasta and salad they had prepared for our dinner that evening. After dinner, full and content, we drifted off to sleep with the splendor of the region permeating our senses.
Anne- Marie, Glenn
